This BB cream formulation was designed to provide superior broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3), label SPF 30 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone and also mitigates the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of the oxide to improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB and HallTress® DIBA Special contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~35 , PFA (PPD) ~25 performance with critical wavelength 382 nm.
| Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.00 | Photostabilizer |
| Ethylhexyl Olivate | SENSOLENE® | 2.00 | Multifunctional Lipid | |
| Diisobutyl Adipate | HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL | 5.00 | Emollient / Sunscreen Solvent | |
| Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Emollient / Sunscreen Solvent | |
| Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
| B | Iron Oxides (yellow) (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 1.30 | Pigment | |
| Iron Oxides (red) (CI 77491), Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 0.42 | Pigment | ||
| Iron Oxides (black) (CI 77499), Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 0.13 | Pigment | ||
| C | Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide], Aluminum Hydroxide (60 nm primary particle size) | 4.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone | 1.15 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
| D | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | |
| Glyceryl Stearate | HALLSTAR® GMS PURE | 1.45 | Emulsifier | |
| PEG-100 Stearate | HALLSTAR® PEG 4400 MS | 1.50 | Co-emulsifier | |
| Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides | 2.00 | Emulsifier | ||
| E | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
| F | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
| Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
| Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.25 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
| G | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
| Glycerin | 4.00 | Humectant | ||
| H | Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Water | EUROL® BT | 0.50 | Multifunctional Active Ingredient |
| Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80 | 1.00 | Thickener (Aqueous) |
| 1 | In secondary vessel combine phase A, start mixing and add phase B into phase A, and when uniform add phase C to phase AB. |
| 2 | Heat this oil phase to 80°C and then add phase D to phase ABC. |
| 3 | When phase ABCD is homogeneous, add phase E to phase ABCD and mix until phase E is well dispersed. |
| 4 | To the main vessel add the Water of phase F, start mixing, add the Disodium EDTA, then add Xanthan Gum, stirring until fully incorporated. |
| 5 | Start heating to 75°C . When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add phase ABCDE to phase F with prop mixing. Homogenize for 3 mins. |
| 6 | Start cooling with center stir mixing. When below 50°C add premix of phase G and phase H into phase ABCDEF continue mixing. |
| 7 | Replace any water lost to evaporation, and mix until smooth. |
| Appearance | Light brown lotion |
| Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa∙s) | 3500 - 5900 |
| pH | 5.5 - 6.5 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
The information presented herein is believed to be accurate and reliable, but no warranty or guarantee, expressed or implied, is made regarding the information or the performance of any product. Further, nothing contained herein shall be taken as any inducement or recommendation to use, manufacture or sell that may infringe any patents or any other proprietary rights now or hereafter in existence, nor to imply compliance with any regulatory requirements
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