This formulation was designed to provide superior broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <<3) label SPF 30 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation, and so improves sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB and HallTress® DIBA Special contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~35 (30), PFA (PPD) ~16 performance with critical wavelength 379 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.00 | Photostabilizer |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Emollient / Sunscreen Solvent | |
Diisobutyl Adipate | HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent | |
B | Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide], Aluminum Hydroxide (60 nm primary particle size) | 2.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
C | Cetearyl Alcohol | HALLSTAR® TA-1618 CETEARYL ALCOHOL | 1.00 | Thickener (Nonaqueous) |
VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.50 | Film Former | ||
Glyceryl Stearate | HALLSTAR® GMS PURE | 0.90 | Emulsifier | |
PEG-100 Stearate | HALLSTAR® PEG 4400 MS | 0.85 | Emulsifier | |
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides | 1.50 | Emulsifier | ||
D | Ethylhexyl Triazone | 1.20 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Glycerin | 3.00 | Humectant | ||
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.30 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80 | 1.00 | Viscosity Increasing Agent (Aqueous) | ||
Cyclopentasiloxane | 3.00 | Feel Modification / Enhancement | ||
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate | 1.50 | Deoiling Agent |
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A, start mixing, slowly add phase B to phase A, heat to 85°C and then add phase C items in order. |
2 | When phase ABC is homogenous, add phase D items to it and continue mixing until dissolved. |
3 | Add Water and Glycerin from phase E to the main vessel, dissolve Disodium EDTA with continued mixing and then add Xanthan Gum. |
4 | Stir phase E until Xanthan Gum is fully incorporated and then start heating phase E to 80°C. |
5 | When both phase ABCD and phase E are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add the oil phase ABCD to water phase E with prop mixing. After 2 minutes, homogenize for 3 minutes and then return to prop mixing. |
6 | Start cooling batch with continued mixing. When batch is < 50°C, add phase F items one by one to batch and continue mixing and cooling. |
7 | When batch is at room temperature, replace any water lost to evaporation, mix until smooth and perform quality assurance checks. |
Appearance | Off-white to pale yellow fluid cream |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa∙s) | 4500 - 8000 |
pH | 5.5 - 6.5 |
Stability (45°C) | pass three months |
Stability (three freeze-thaw cycles) | pass |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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