This BB cream formulation was designed to provide superior broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3), label SPF 40 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone and also mitigates the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of the oxides to improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB, Sensolene® and HallTress® DIBA Special contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product feel. Eurol® BT contributes its antiaging, skin elasticizing, anti-oxidant and moisturizing properties. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~45 , PFA (PPD) ~21 performance with critical wavelength 382 nm.
| Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.00 | Photostabilizer |
| Ethylhexyl Olivate | SENSOLENE® | 2.00 | Multifunctional Lipid | |
| Diisobutyl Adipate | HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
| Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
| Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
| B | Iron Oxides (yellow) (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 1.30 | Pigment | |
| Iron Oxides (red) (CI 77491), Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 0.42 | Pigment | ||
| Iron Oxides (black) (CI 77499), Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 0.13 | Pigment | ||
| C | Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide] (CI 77891), Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone | 1.15 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
| D | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | |
| Glyceryl Stearate | HALLSTAR® GMS PURE | 1.45 | Emulsifier | |
| PEG-100 Stearate | HALLSTAR® PEG 4400 MS | 1.50 | Emulsifier | |
| Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides | 2.00 | Emulsifier | ||
| E | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
| F | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
| Glycerin | 3.00 | Humectant | ||
| Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
| Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.25 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
| G | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
| Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Water | EUROL® BT | 0.50 | Multifunctional Active Ingredient | |
| Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80 | 1.80 | Viscosity Increasing Agent (Aqueous) | ||
| Cyclopentasiloxane | 2.00 | Feel Modification / Enhancement | ||
| Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate | 2.00 | Deoiling Agent |
| 1 | In secondary vessel combine phase A, start mixing, add phase B to phase A and, when uniform, add phase C to phase AB. |
| 2 | Heat this oil phase ABC to 80°C and then add phase D to it.. |
| 3 | When phase ABCD is homogeneous, add phase E to it and mix until phase E is fully dissolved. |
| 4 | To the main vessel add Water and Glycerin of phase F, start mixing, add the Disodium EDTA and then add Xanthan Gum. |
| 5 | Heat phase F to 75°C with continued mixing and ensure it is homogeneous. |
| 6 | When both phases are at designated temperatures, slowly add phase ABCDE to phase F with prop mixing and then homogenize for 3 minutes. |
| 7 | Start cooling batch with center stir (prop) mixing and when < 50°C, add phase G items one by one to it with continued mixing. |
| 8 | Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix batch until smooth. |
| Appearance | Light brown thick lotion (cream) |
| Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 11000 - 18500 |
| pH | 5.5 - 6.0 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
The information presented herein is believed to be accurate and reliable, but no warranty or guarantee, expressed or implied, is made regarding the information or the performance of any product. Further, nothing contained herein shall be taken as any inducement or recommendation to use, manufacture or sell that may infringe any patents or any other proprietary rights now or hereafter in existence, nor to imply compliance with any regulatory requirements
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