This sunscreen cream formulation was designed to provide superb broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <<3) label SPF 50+ performance. SolaStay® S1 and SolaStay® P1 provide very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation and so improve sunscreen performance. They also mitigate the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of Titianium Dioxide. HallBrite® BHB and HallTress® DIBA contribute to UV filter solubility and enhanced product feel. Olivem® liquid crystal making emulsifiers provide a stable emulsion while imparting sensorial and physiological benefits. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~ 65, PFA(PPD) ~ 58, 5 Stars UVA/UVB (1.01 – 1.01) performance with critical wavelength 381 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.40 | Photostabilizer |
Polyester-25 | SolaStay® P1* | 3.00 | Photostabilizer | |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate | 5.00 | Solvent | ||
Diisobutyl Adipate | HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL | 6.00 | Sunscreen Solvent | |
B | Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | 1.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide] | 3.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
C | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 2.00 | Film Former | |
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | OLIVEM® 1000 | 3.00 | Self-Emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker | |
Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate | OLIVEM® VS FEEL | 2.00 | Co-emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker | |
D | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.20 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Glycerin | 3.00 | null |
1 | In a secondary vessel combine phase A, start mixing and slowly add phase B ingredients, in order, with continued mixing. |
2 | Heat this oil phase AB to 75°C and then add phase C ingredients, in order, with mixing. |
3 | Add phase D to phase ABC and mix well until Avobenzone is dissolved. |
4 | Add water of phase E to the main vessel, dissolve the Disodium EDTA and, with continue mixing, add the Xanthan Gum. |
5 | When the Xanthan Gum is fully incorporated, start heating this water phase E to 75°C and add premixed phase F with mixing. |
6 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add oil phase ABCD to water phase EF with prop mixing. |
7 | Homogenize combined phases for 3 minutes and then resume prop mixing and start cooling batch. |
8 | When batch is at room temperature, replace any water lost to evaporation and mix until batch is smooth. |
Appearance | Off-white to pale yellow thick lotion |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 5500 - 9500 |
pH | 4.0 - 5.0 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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