This Oxybenzone-free U.S.-focused sunscreen lotion formulation was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA ≤ 3) label SPF 15 performance. SolaStay® S1 and SolaStay® P1 provide very rapid quenching of the excited states of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation and so improving sunscreen performance. Olivem® 1000 and Olivem® VS Feel constitute the elegant base upon which a stable emulsion with sensorial and physiological benefits was delivered. HallBrite® BHB and Sensolene® contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product spreadability and feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~20, PFA (PPD) ~6 performance with critical wavelength 378 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.00 | Photostabilizer |
Polyester-25 | SolaStay® P1* | 4.00 | Photostabilizer | |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Homosalate [Homosalate] | 15.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Ethylhexyl Olivate | SENSOLENE® | 2.00 | Multifunctional Lipid | |
B | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 3.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
C | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | |
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | OLIVEM® 1000 | 3.00 | Self-Emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker | |
Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate | OLIVEM® VS FEEL | 2.00 | Co-emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker | |
D | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.25 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
E | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Glycerin | 4.00 | Humectant |
1 | In a secondary vessel combine phase A and starting mixing. Slowly add phase B to phase A with continued mixing. |
2 | Heat this oil phase AB to 85°C and then add phase C ingredients individually with mixing. |
3 | Add water of phase D to main vessel, dissolve Disodium EDTA and, with continued mixing, add Xanthan Gum, mixing until fully incorporated. |
4 | Start heating this water phase D to 80°C and add premixed phase E with mixing. |
5 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add oil phase ABC to water phase DE with prop mixing. |
6 | Homogenize combined phases for 3 minutes and then resume prop mixing and start cooling to room temperature. |
7 | When batch is at room temperature, replace any water lost to evaporation and mix until smooth. |
Appearance | Pale yellow lotion |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 3600 - 6000 |
pH | 4.5 - 5.5 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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