This formula provides broad-spectum sun protection using high polarity sunscreen solvents and HallBrite® PSF, a novel triplet state quenching organomodified silicone polymer, to enhance the photostability of Avobenzone. HallBrite® PSF also improves feel and spreadability and provides detackification and anti-whitening benefits, and may enhance substantivity and water resistance. Oilve inspired emulsifiers contribute to unique product feel. In vitro testing suggest SPF ~ 16, PFA (PPD) ~6. Critical wavelength = 375nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.20 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
B | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Glycerin | 2.00 | Humectant | ||
Butylene Glycol | 2.00 | Humectant | ||
C | Dimethyl Capramide | SPECTRASOLV® DMDA* | 1.00 | Sunscreen Solvent |
Homosalate [Homosalate] | 7.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Octocrylene [Octocrilene] | 1.80 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Undecylcrylene Dimethicone | HALLBRITE® PSF* | 3.00 | Photostabilizer | |
Diisobutyl Adipate | HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
D | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
E | Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | OLIVEM® 1000 | 0.70 | Self-Emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker |
Ceteareth-6 Olivate | OLIVEM® 800 | 3.20 | Emulsifier | |
VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | ||
F | Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80 | 1.75 | Thickener (Aqueous) | |
Silica (spherical, 12 µm) | 2.00 | Deoiling Agent |
1 | Add water of phase A to the main vessel. Dissolve EDTA with continue mixing and then add Xanthan gum, stirring until fully incorporated. |
2 | Start heating phase A to 80°C and add premixed phase B with mixing. |
3 | To a secondary vessel, add phase C, and start mixing. Add D with mixing, heat to 80°C, and then add phase E in order. |
4 | When both phases are homogenous, and at their designated temperature, add oil phase CDE to the water phase AB with prop mixing |
5 | Start homogenizing and cooling. When batch reaches 55°C, start sweet mixing. At 50°C or lower, add simugel with mixing. When batch is smooth, add Silica with mixing. |
6 | Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix until smooth and at desired filling temperature. |
7 | Stop cooling and mixing, perform final quality assurance checks and package product. |
Appearance | White Cream |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 16000 - 27000 |
pH | 4.5 - 5.5 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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