This formulation was designed to provide superior broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <<3) label SPF 30 performance. SolaStay® S1 is incorporated to mitigate the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of Titanium Dioxide and to rapidly and efficiently quench the excited states of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation, and so improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB and HallTress® DIBA Special aid wetting and dispersion of the Titanium Dioxide and contribute to UV filter solubility and enhanced product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~35, PFA (PPD) ~16 performance with critical wavelength 379 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.00 | Photostabilizer |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
Diisobutyl Adipate | HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent | |
B | Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide], Aluminum Hydroxide (60 nm primary particle size) | 2.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
C | Cetearyl Alcohol | HALLSTAR® TA-1618 CETEARYL ALCOHOL | 1.00 | Emulsion Stabilizer |
VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.50 | Film Former | ||
Glyceryl Stearate | HALLSTAR® GMS PURE | 0.90 | Emulsifier | |
PEG-100 Stearate | HALLSTAR® PEG 4400 MS | 0.85 | Emulsifier | |
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides | 1.50 | Emulsifier | ||
D | Ethylhexyl Triazone | 1.20 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.30 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Glycerin | 3.00 | Humectant | ||
G | Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80 | 1.00 | Thickener (Aqueous) / Emulsion Stabilizer |
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A, start mixing, slowly add phase B, and then heat phase AB to 85°C. |
2 | Add phase C ingredients, in order, to phase AB. When phase ABC is homogeneous add phase D ingredients, mixing until they are fully dissolved. |
3 | Add the water from phase E to the main vessel, dissolve the Disodium EDTA and, with continued mixing, disperse the Xanthan Gum. |
4 | When Xanthan Gum is fully incorporated, start heating phase E to 80°C and add premix of phase F to phase E. |
5 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add oil phase ABCD to water phase EF. |
6 | After 2 minutes prop mixing, homogenize for 3 minutes, resume prop mixing and begin cooling batch. |
7 | When batch is below 50°C, add phase G to batch and continue mixing and cooling until at room temperature. |
8 | Replace any water lost to evaporation, mix batch until smooth and perform quality assurance checks. |
Appearance | Off-white to pale yellow cream |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 5000 - 8300 |
pH | 6.0 - 7.0 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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