This formulation yields a broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3) sunscreen cream. SolaStay® S1 is incorporated to mitigate the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of Titanium Dioxide and to rapidly and efficiently quench the excited states of Avobenzone. HallBrite® BHB aids wetting and dispersion of the Titanium Dioxide. Olivem® liquid crystal making emulsifiers provide a stable emulsion while imparting sensorial and physiological benefits. This product was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~32, PFA (PPD) ~15 performance with critical wavelength 379 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.50 | Photostabilizer |
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | ||
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | 1.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
B | Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide] | 2.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
C | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 2.00 | Film Former | |
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | OLIVEM® 1000 | 3.00 | Self-Emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker | |
Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate | OLIVEM® VS FEEL | 2.00 | Emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker | |
D | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.30 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Glycerin | 3.00 | Humectant |
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A and start mixing and heating. When phase A is a clear solution add phase B to it and continue heating. |
2 | When phase AB is at 85°C add phase C ingredients, in order, and when again homogeneous add phase D, dissolving it completely. |
3 | To the main vessel, add the water from phase E, dissolve the Disodium EDTA and, with continued mixing, disperse the Xanthan Gum. |
4 | When the Xanthan Gum is fully incorporated, start heating phase E to 80°C and add premix of phase F to phase E. |
5 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add oil phase ABCD to water phase EF with prop mixing. |
6 | After 2 minutes prop mixing batch, homogenize for 3 minutes, resume prop mixing and begin cooling batch. |
7 | Cool batch to room temperature, replace any water lost to evaporation, mix until smooth and perform quality assurance checks. |
Appearance | Off-white to pale yellow cream |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 7500 - 12500 |
pH | 4.5 - 5.5 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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