This formulation was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3) label SPF 30 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation. HallBrite® BHB and HallTress® DIBA contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~33 , PFA (PPD) ~17 performance with critical wavelength 380 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 3.00 | Photostabilizer |
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 6.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
Diisobutyl Adipate | HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
B | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 4.20 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
C | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | |
Tri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate | 1.50 | Consistency Modifier | ||
Ceteareth-25, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate | 3.00 | Emulsifier | ||
D | Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (hollow spherical, 325 nm) | 3.00 | SPF Booster | |
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.20 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Glycerin | 4.00 | Humectant | |
Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | ||
G | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | 9.60 | Volatile Carrier | |
Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum | 0.40 | Stabilizing Agent |
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A, start mixing, add phase B to A, heat to 70°C, and then add phase C ingredients to AB with continued mixing. Then, add phase D to ABC and mix until completely dispersed. |
2 | Add the water from phase E to main vessel, dissolve Disodium EDTA, then add Xanthan Gum and mix until fully incorporated. |
3 | Start phase E heating to 70°C and add premix of phase F to phase E. |
4 | With both phases are homogeneous and at temperature, add oil phase ABCD to water phase EF with mixing. |
5 | After mixing for five minutes, start cooling and homogenize until batch reaches 55°C (or for 3 minutes), then return to prop mixing with continued cooling. |
6 | At 50°C or lower, very slowly add premix of phase G and continue mixing for 20 minutes. |
7 | Replace any water lost to evaporation, and mix batch until smooth. Perform quality assurance checks. |
Appearance | Pale yellow, fluid liquid lotion |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, Sp 4, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 650 - 1200 |
pH | 6.5 - 7.5 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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