This formulation was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3) label SPF 30 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation. SolaStay® S1 also mitigates the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of the oxide to improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB contributes to UV filter solubility and enhances product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~35 (30), PFA (PPD) ~13 performance with critical wavelength 380 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.20 | Photostabilizer |
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | ||
B | Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide], Aluminum Hydroxide (60 nm primary particle size) | 3.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
C | Ethylhexyl Triazone | 1.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | ||
Tri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate | 1.50 | Consistency Modifier | ||
Ceteareth-25, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate | 3.00 | Emulsifier | ||
D | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.20 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.20 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Glycerin | 4.00 | Humectant | |
Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | ||
G | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | 9.60 | Volatile Carrier | |
Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum | 0.40 | Stabilizing Agent |
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A, start mixing, add phase B to phase A, and heat phase AB to 70°C. |
2 | Add phase C ingredients to phase AB with continued mixing, then, add phase D to phase ABC and mix until completely dissolved. |
3 | Add the water from phase E to main vessel, dissolve Disodium EDTA, then add Xanthan Gum and mix until fully incorporated. |
4 | Start heating phase E to 70°C and add premix of phase F to phase E. |
5 | With both phases are homogeneous and at temperature, add oil phase ABCD to water phase EF with mixing. |
6 | After mixing for five minutes, start cooling and homogenize until batch reaches 55°C (or 3 minutes), then |
7 | At 50°C or lower, very slowly add premix of phase G and continue mixing for 20 minutes. |
8 | Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix batch until smooth. Perform quality assurance checks. |
Appearance | Off-White, Fluid Liquid Lotion |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, Sp 4, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 700 - 1300 |
pH | 6.5 - 7.5 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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