This formulation was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3), label SPF 30 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation. SolaStay® S1 also mitigates the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of the oxide to improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB and HallTress® DIBA Special contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product feel while liquid crystal making self-emulsifier Olivem® 1000 contributes to a stable emulsion while imparting sensorial and physiological benefits. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~35 , PFA (PPD) ~12 performance with critical wavelength 380 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 2.00 | Photostabilizer |
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Diisobutyl Adipate | HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent | |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 5.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
B | Ethylhexyl Triazone | 1.15 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide], Aluminum Hydroxide (60 nm primary particle size) | 4.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
C | Cetearyl Alcohol | HALLSTAR® TA-1618 CETEARYL ALCOHOL | 0.50 | Emulsion Stabilizer |
VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | ||
Glyceryl Stearate | HALLSTAR® GMS PURE | 1.50 | Emulsifier | |
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | OLIVEM® 1000 | 3.00 | Self-Emulsifier / Liquid Crystal Maker | |
D | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.30 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Glycerin | 3.00 | Humectant |
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A and start mixing. Disperse phase B in phase A with continued mixing. |
2 | Heat phase AB to 85°C and then add phase C ingredients in order with mixing. |
3 | Add phase D to phase ABC, mixing well until phase D is fully dissolved. |
4 | Add water of phase E to the main vessel, dissolve Disodium EDTA and, with continued mixing, add Xanthan Gum, mixing until fully incorporated. |
5 | Start heating phase E to 80°C and add premixed phase F. |
6 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add oil phase ABCD to water phase EF with prop mixing. |
7 | Homogenize combined phases for 3 minutes and then resume prop mixing and start cooling batch to room temperature. |
8 | When batch is at room temperature, replace any water lost to evaporation and mix until batch is smooth. |
Appearance | Pale yellow lotion |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV-II, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 3500 - 6000 |
pH | 5 - 6 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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