This sunscreen lotion formulation was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA ≤3) label SPF 50 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation, while also mitigating the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of the oxide, improving sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB aids UV filter solubility and enhances product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~ 55, PFA (PPD) ~ 21 performance with critical wavelength 380 nm.
Phase | INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) | Trade Name | % Wt | Function |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | 10.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
Dicaprylyl Carbonate | 3.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | ||
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate [Octinoxate] | 7.50 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | SolaStay® S1* | 3.25 | Photostabilizer | |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | HALLBRITE® BHB* | 3.00 | Sunscreen Solvent / Emollient | |
B | 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor [Enzacamene] | 3.80 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide], Aluminum Hydroxide (60 nm primary particle size) | 4.10 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | ||
C | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | Film Former | |
Glyceryl Stearate | HALLSTAR® GMS PURE | 1.85 | Emulsifier | |
PEG-100 Stearate | HALLSTAR® PEG 4400 MS | 1.70 | Emulsifier | |
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides | 1.50 | Emulsifier | ||
D | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 3.00 | UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent | |
E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | up to 100 | Volatile Carrier | |
Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | Chelating Agent | ||
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer | 0.22 | Thickener (Aqueous) | ||
F | Preservative | a.n. | Preservative | |
Glycerin | 3.00 | Humectant | ||
G | Potassium Hydroxide (10% aqueous) | 1.10 | pH Adjuster | |
H | Cyclopentasiloxane | 2.50 | Volatile Carrier | |
Cyclopentasiloxane, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer | 2.50 | Feel Modification / Enhancement |
1 | To a secondary vessel add phase A, start mixing and slowly add phase B components, in order, to phase A with continued mixing. |
2 | Heat phase AB to 85°C and then add phase C ingredients, in order, with mixing. |
3 | Add phase D to phase ABC and mix until phase D is fully dissolved. |
4 | To the main vessel add the water of phase E, start mixing, add the EDTA salt, and then add the crosspolymer. |
5 | Heat phase E to 80°C and then add premix of phase F to phase E. |
6 | When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add oil phase ABCD to water phase EF with prop mixing. |
7 | Homogenize combined phases intensively, start cooling, and when the batch is at 55°C, add phase G and keep homogenizing intensively. |
8 | After 5 minutes, stop homogenizing, resume sweep mixing and add premix of phase H, mixing well. |
9 | When the batch is uniform, add deionized water to correct for evaporative losses, mixing until a smooth cream. |
Appearance | Off-white, thick lotion |
Viscosity (Brk, RVDV II+, T-D, 20 rpm, after 24 h at room temperature; mPa·s) | 5000 - 8000 |
pH | 5.0 - 6.0 |
*Patented and Patent Pending
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